Harry Hillman

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Just waiting on a 2 tone horn to arrive before finishing off the rad mounting and boxing in the heater intake and horn.

In the meantime have finally finished off replacing all rotten metal. Having started tidying up the stripped shell in Jan 2021 it seems to have taken forever. It has been a bit more enjoyable recently making new bits like the seat mounts etc.

Fitted a 6 point Safety Devices cage. There were a couple of issues with the cage but they were very good at sorting them out.
Imp Safety Devices cage.jpeg
To get the main hoop back stays in the top of the rear storage pockets had to be trimmed down. I welded in a strip of metal along the top inside edge of the pocket to add a bit of stiffness back along this lip.
cut imp rear storage pockets.jpeg

Tom likes tinkering with CAD software and 3d printing so we have been playing around with some 3d printed dimple dies to put in some lightening holes. They seemed to work well with a clear defined smooth bevel edge, tried to get the angle of the bevel much tighter to match the original openings/holes nearby but couldn't get there. To keep the plastic from flexing when tightening up the bolts used metal angle as a back plate.
3d printed dimple dies.jpeg
imp rear seat.jpeg
imp dimple dies.jpeg
I think that the 3d printing stuff will come in handy later on when trimming out the car: such as with the top screen bar of the rollcage interferring with fitting the mirror and sun visors should be able to come up with tidy brackets to mount to the bar.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by oli »

Who cut down the rear storage pockets like that, and why?
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by moose »

Oli. If you read the thread it was done to clear the roll cage. Neil are you planning to compete in the car ? If you plan on having an MSA log book to go rallying then sorry to point these things out but better at this stage than the car in paint. The main B pillar hoop must now be 45mm dia 2.5mm wall or 50mm 2.0mm wall thickness. The front legs must have only one bend so from the roof follow screen pillar and then one bend and straight down to floor looks like yours has extra bend to clear dashboard. Also seat mounts must now be FIA spec. If you need more info get in touch. If it is just a fun rally lookalike car ignore my info. You have done a very nice job with the body work and the restoration keep updating the thread.


Regards Mike
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Oli
I had to cut down the top section of the pockets to get the rollcage in.
I tried to get the cage in without cutting them down but no chance. (It even mentioned in Safety Devices fitting instructions, which were specific to fitting to imps that this would have to be trimmed down like this.)
Once the rollcage goes in through the door, the top of the main hoop has to angle backwards (and the rear stays lower) for the main hoop feet to pass over the raised front seat floor panels. Once the main hoop feet have passed behind the raised panel it can then brought upright for the rear stays to then lift up onto the rear arches.

The saving grace with the pockets being nice and deep is that even with the cut down they will still be usefull storage.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by The Nun »

The way around it then would be to build the cage and weld it up in the car then instead of trying to insert it semi built up?
But I expect that's not allowed DIY welding if you're competing, certification etc?
If the cage is just for show, which many are, you could do it that way I expect?
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Mike
I see you posted a comment just before I posted my reply about the roll cage.

I don’t intend to go rallying but just a road car that can do track days and sprints, and try and remain in road going or modified class so it should be good for this.
Rallying is way to dangerous, with all those trees and big drops 2ft away, ...but circuit racing, that's fun!

That was well spotted about the 2 bends on the the front legs!
The roll cage came with a period spec FIA certificate so wouldn’t that have covered it if it was ever to be used competitively on a circuit?

Point taken about the seat mounts. I did think about removing the front seat floor panels and putting in the athwartship tube seat mounts and frames but decided on keeping the car a bit more road like and slightly strengthened on standard. The seats I have are Cobra retro bucket seats, again a nod to competition use but for a road car. My youngest son has better spec bucket seat on his sim racing rig!

In an ideal world when I win the lottery I would have 2 imps, one for road and one for circuit racing.
But then I am already lucky in having 1 imp, ...just trying cover both directions, and the compromises.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Finally got on with finishing off fitting the front radiator and bits.
I combined boxing in the horn, air intake for the heater and bracket mount for one side of the radiator. Made from aluminium with rivets to keep a sort of period look.
Box cut from aluminium.jpg
Ready to assemble.jpg
Box assembled ready to fit.jpg
Ready to fit , showing rad mount.jpg
Radiator bracket to be welded in place.jpg
Brackets in ready to take radiator.jpg
Have cut the back of the wheel well for exiting air out from radiator. To try and minimise the weakening of the area by cutting the opening I put an edge on the holes.
Cutting out wheel well.jpg
Wheel well opening.jpg
All fiited up.jpg
You can see from this pic that the petrol and fluids openings in the front panel have been closed up.

Fan positioning behind rad.jpg
Although the rad is only 6 inches high, I have a 7 inch fan which nicely fits behind. I haven't made the ducting and fan brackets yet, I will do later when the petrol tank is in position to make sure it fits although I have already attached some weld in nuts ready to secure the ducting.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Other bits of metalwork completed:
All paint drain holes have been welded up so no rubber grommets to put back on.
Areas around the suspension mounts ran some extra welds along the seams for strengthening.
Added some extra welds on the rear crossmember for strengthening.


Although there was lots of rust to cutout, at least the whole car was original without running repairs to have to correct, except the front driver's side had been repaired from a knock. Alot of the inner arch had to be cutout including the original seam that runs fore and aft down the middle but I think my copy is close enough to pass rough inspection.
A bit of a mess.jpg
Finally repaired.jpg

I was hoping that there would be some paint on the car by now, but as always everything always takes longer than I anticipate.
Just got to check door fit first before starting to prep the bodywork.
Harry fully stripped.jpg
Fully coated with hydrate 80.jpg
interior.jpg
All tidied up.jpg
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by The Nun »

You can't really check the doors for accurate fit with the shell supported that way at its extreme ends unless it's been braced or caged, because the shell deflects causing the door back edge to drop, the shell ideally needs to be supported at its road spring points or on its wheels.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Thanks Peter,
will change accordingly, saved me wasting today doing it wrongly!
Neil
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Should the bottom lips of the rear wings run up level to the rear section, see pic?
As I have replaced both sides of rear wings I haven't anything to reference to, currently both sides are approx 9mm lower than the rear panel.
Rear panel.jpg

Only gentle progress over last few weeks.
Made some small tweeks to both doors where the gap was just a bit too big or uneven by running some welds along the edges.
original door gap.jpg
welds along edges.jpg
welds filed down ready for filler.jpg
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by John A Ross »

Neil

They can eb ahit and a miss, I reckon if you have both sides the same you have done a good job :-)
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Thanks John
Yours look like they maybe a bit less but at least they aren’t flush / inline.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by John A Ross »

Neil

Yours still looks like it needs to rotate a bit to bring the bottom edge down, are you able to elongate the holes on the lower bolts for the rear panel , I had to do that on my other car as I reckoned the ESP holes in the wing were a little off.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Ignorance is bliss! ... I thought I would have painted the car by now but the normal summer distractions and extra heat this summer has curtailed time in the garage as well as it always taking sooo much longer than to do something on the car than I think.

Have been having fun and games with getting a sport engine lid:
As mentioned previously in my build, I chopped up my original std lid ready to make a mould from, the intention being that once the imp is 'finished' I would like to have a go at making some carbon fibre bits. In the meantime to get the car on the road I would fit a fibreglass lid. First I placed an order with Fibreclass, no panel and no refund given so I gave him a CCJ. Then ordered one from Honeybourne Moulding, there were issues with that one so they refunded me.
I think I will just wait now to see how long it takes to get the car on the road before either sourcing one or making one.

Prepping shell.jpg
The doors were on when applying the filler, I just forgot to take pic before removing them.
Ready for primer.jpg
Epoxy primer applied.jpg
Primer applied everywhere except underside. Just got to do a gentle flattening of the primer before applying seam sealer.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by John A Ross »

Fella on Ebay selling them now and Mark maynard is having some made in carbon fibre.

Not seen any negative comments on fella on Ebay and you always have your money back thingy.

If it came to it I am sure Graham Anderson would have a good standard lid
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Thanks for that John.
I contacted Mark and yes he is currently working on the moulds to produce both bonnets and boots in carbon fibre.
That would save a huge chunk of effort to not make myself, although I still like the idea of having a go/learning carbon infusion on some other bits!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

After sanding the 1st coat of epoxy primer, seam sealer applied everywhere I could reach, except underside of car, then applied 2nd coat of epoxy primer. Whilst priming, all the arkward corners I couldn't get to with the spray gun I had to brush on, I brushed on the top coat in these areas before spraying. I am using a 2k acrylic paint
Brushed akward area before spraying.jpg
Applied 1 top coat everywhere and then just applied a 2nd coat on all the floor and areas that I think will get a bit more scuffing and knocking.
boot area painted.jpg
inside of imp painted.jpg
IMG_3546.jpg
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by impmann »

Looking good - are you painting this in a home garage? If so, could you share what equipment etc you've used - I have a couple of cars needing paint and I'm not in a financial position to pay someone else, so looking at options! I've previously used Celly but interested in how you are using 2K at home.

Thanks!! 8)
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by olliewm »

Hi Neil, Imp's looking fantastic! Well done mate.

I was wondering about your use of Hydrate 80. I see you paint this on the metal after you've stripped the paint. Are you using this prevent rust forming for a period of time until you get around to applying primer or is it for rust conversion duties? Do you have to rough it up before spraying primer or does it go straight on?

Cheers. Ollie
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Hi Tim & Ollie

I used the hydrate 80 to get to all the awkward corners and nooks and crannies that I couldn't get to fully clean off any surface scale. I ended up coating the whole car in the stuff as I was taking such a long time to get from taking the old paint off down to bare metal and prepping it ready for new paint. As I had used combinations of flap discs, angle grinder discs (and not so successfully paint stripper) the surface was already roughened up a bit to apply the hydrate 80 straight on once I had wiped/degreased the surface. Where I did roughen up some grubby areas where I had already applied the stuff, it had reacted well with the surface so I think it can only help metal protect as well as the paint. I did go over the hydrate 80 with 80 and 120grit before applying the epoxy primer. I am no expert and my only research into it was from online but I think it was worth doing.

Fuji HVLP sprayer.jpg

I am spraying the car at home. I am lucky that I have a good size double garage so lots of my other stuff in the garage is set back a bit from the car (see previous pics) and have masked most of it to minimise overspray.
Using a Fuji HVLP system (bought previously for finishing a woodwork project) using the standard (gold coloured) 1.5mm spray cap that came with the gun for all paints. It seems to be coping well with what I am doing.

The weak link is my abilities, I am having to do alot of tidying up and polishing out the final surface, nothing like all the slick videos on utube. Having said that I take comfort in that when we did the Morgan car factory tour this summer, looking at their panels after they had been sprayed they then went to have their orange peel polished out ...and they're the professionals!
One big benefit with the HVLP system is that the overspray is massively reduced. A friend warned me that when spraying in a home garage as opposed to a proper spray booth with fans extracting the air there would be a big mist of paint when spraying but I have had none of that. Another benefit is that it is very compact, when not in use easy to stow away, compared with the size of a regular compressor needed to cope with spraying taking up valuable space in a home garage.

Be safe and make sure you use a decent mask, I am using a 3M Paint Mask Respirator 06941+.
Watched countless videos online of what to do and asking a friend who knows what he is doing but still along way for me to go but I like the challenge. Hopefully by the time I have finished the inside and underside my abilities will have progressed to do a good enough job on the topside bodywork. It certainly isn't there yet but I just have to spend time to sort it out once I have laid the paint down to make it respectable!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by bazzateer »

Nice work :D
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by impmann »

Thanks!

Impressive results so far. 8)
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Onto the underside
Tow coats of epoxy (seam sealer inbetween coats).
Seam sealer applied after 1st epoxy coat.jpg

Then 2 coats of Novol Cobra bedliner (with colour tint).
underside.jpg

The bedliner finish was like a semi gloss so when applying the 3 coats 2k finish to the engine bay area I applied 1 coat to the whole of the underside to match up the 'gloss' level.
engine bay.jpg
underside front.jpg

Started spraying insides of other bits ready to fit to bodyshell before final spraying.
inside of door.jpg
Getting happier with my spraying but my biggest issue is still way to much dust landing in the paint, although the underside is better than the inside of the car so at least going in the right direction before tackling the topside.
Rear panel.jpg
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Uncle Henry »

Great progress. Looks fab 👌

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Pog »

Neil wrote: Fri Sep 23, 2022 9:56 pm Hi Tim & Ollie

Fuji HVLP sprayer.jpg


I am spraying the car at home. I am lucky that I have a good size double garage so lots of my other stuff in the garage is set back a bit from the car (see previous pics) and have masked most of it to minimise overspray.
Using a Fuji HVLP system (bought previously for finishing a woodwork project) using the standard (gold coloured) 1.5mm spray cap that came with the gun for all paints. It seems to be coping well with what I am doing.
A turbine sprayer you say? Man this has got me thinking! I'm at the stage of my restoration where it needs paint and while I'm more than confident in jumping in and having a go at doing it myself (that's how we learn!) I've been so reluctant about the idea of having to get a compressor and all the gear and figuring out where all of it would go in a tiny single garage. I hadn't even heard of one of these, but if that's how small they are and they quite literally just plug into the mains, you can't get much simpler than that. Yep, really got me thinking...

The car's looking really good! Looking forward to seeing it progress 8)

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Pog
Another side benefit as well as its compact size is noise, it is a tiny bit nosier than a workshop vacuum but much quieter than a normal compressor (keeps the neighbours onside!)
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

So I found a better way of de-dusting before spraying. As I wasn't happy with the amount of dust in the paint inside the bonnet, engine bay and inside the car I rubbed down enough to de-nib it and gave another coat.

Painted some other bits, just getting any practise in before attempting the bodywork.
Some other bits.jpg
Ready for topcoat.jpg
Applied 2 coats epoxy primer, rub down, then 2 coats high build primer and then final rub down.
On a few edges I rubbed through to bare metal so wisped over with epoxy primer (without rubbing down) before putting on the topcoat.
Painting done.jpg
All painted inc floor.jpg
To help minimise dust I did wet the floor before spraying, didn't stop the paint coating the floor, but that's OK, I'm sure it will wear off ...eventually!

I am pleased with how the paint went on, 3 coats wet on wet. Of course there is still some dust but not to bad and the orange peel isn't terrible.
Spray finish.jpg
I have done some polishing to smooth it out. I thought I only had a couple of runs in the paint but found another 5 or so when polishing but still happy with that. I haven't taken out all the orange peel but afraid of cutting through the topcoat, which I have done in a couple of places.
Front end all polished.jpg
All polished.jpg
Finally I can clean the garage up after nearly 2 years of dirt, the first 15 months of black dust from the metal work and then the last few months of bodyfiller dust.
Just got to remember how to put it all back together now!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by impmann »

Looks lovely! 8)
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Uncle Henry »

Great colour. Be proud !

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by olliewm »

Looks awesome mate, well done!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Pog »

Fantastic work! Bet you're well happy with that, I certainly would be :D

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Is it better to apply cavity wax now whilst there is nothing on the shell and just accept that it will be messy putting the plumbing and electric ('stuff') in or wait until after installing but then not coating the metal completely with 'stuff' in the way? (hoses will be in sills)

Apologies in advance from here on with silly questions on fitting out!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by The Nun »

Wrong time now to apply cavity wax, it needs to be done in August when it's 43c outside so the wax stays fluid for several days and really soaks into the seams, applying it when it's under 15c it solidifies almost straight the way upon contact wuth the cold metal.and doesn't creep so losing the best of its effects.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by moose »

Hi Neil. Car is looking great. If you use a good quality wax like Dinitrol it remains sprayable at lower temps than say waxoyl. This is a lifetime protection for your car so a day with the door shut in the workshop and the cost of heating on all day until car is warm for belt and braces is well worth it. I would cavity wax and then fit components so all the bare metal is covered, yes it can make dragging the heater pipes through it a bit messy but if you are prepared with a rag and some brake cleaner it will not be so bad and better that the metal is properly covered. Once pipes and looms in sills i would use Dinitrol small cans with long pipe and apply another layer of wax just in case you have rubbed any off dragging stuff through sills and use a hot air gun to warm the panels to ensure it runs. Or get set up on the day you heat the workshop and spray cavity wax, pull everything through voids and re-spray same day.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

So on with the garage heating and blocking up the draft areas around the doors. Used a couple of cans of Dinitrol ML to get into all the crevices and cavities followed by 4 cans of Dinitrol 3125. Much happier now as I remember a lot of the rot I cut out was from the inside out.

Garage all nicely cleaned up after the painting, ...and then promptly all dirty again cleaning off lots of the little bits to go back on.
Of course I still need to clean up alot of other smaller bits but I think I have done all parts that need painting and will hopefully be a bit more contained mess.
Painting bits!.jpg
Had some spare time on hand last week so made up some slightly larger pedals.
Attached new pedals.jpg
New pedals.jpg

Getting all excited now, next job is to actually bolt some bits onto the shell.
The Misses will be happy for the spare bedroom to start being cleared out from bits I have been collecting for the last 2 years!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by The Nun »

Holes for grip?
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Uncle Henry »

Lightness. And a space for some funky colour changing LEDs I reckon. Sound to Light would work.

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Led’s? …now your being silly.

The holes are weight saving, I should save about 0.01 seconds driving to the newsagents on a Sunday morning! …if not in reality but in my mind
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Uncle Henry »

Just kiddin' Neil. :lol:

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by moose »

Hi Neil. Looking good mate. Get some skateboard grip tape and cover the pedals in that and then cut the holes out so it will look the same but less chance of foot slipping of pedals should your shoes be wet or not have a very grippy sole.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

When using the countersinks on the holes they left a slight raised burr which I didn’t file off to aid grip but was very nominal but the tape sounds like a much better solution thanks
…but I am concerned of the negative effect on my timing to newsagents by doing so!
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by moose »

send me the sizes of your pedals and I will cut some grip tape to size and weigh it for you.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Gentle progress over the last month.
Cleaning up some bits ready to go back on.

New poly bushes fitted, brakes overhauled with new wheel cylinders and uprated brake shoes.
Upgraded to 1inch half shafts with new universal joints and uprated doughnuts.
Thanks to Bob Allen, Mike Dent and Malcolm Anderson for the parts and advice.
bits to ready to fit.jpg

Finally fitted something onto the shell, ...2 years since stripping it all off!
pedalbox fitted.jpg
I fitted 0.625 and 0.7 master cylinders for the clutch and brakes.

Concentrating on putting all the plumbing/pipework back on the underside to then get suspension on and take off the spit for the last time.
It doesn't look much but it is creeping forward. Silly things like the old throttle cable sleeving being worn in a couple of places so needing replacement but then finding I need the sport cable to go on the carbs as its is a bit longer. Where the fuel pump will locate next to the tank and fuel line run. All fun stuff but just bit by bit!

I think with the cold spell coming will be a good time to stay inside in the warm and work a bit more on the wiring layout.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by colimp66 »

This is when you can feel like your getting somewhere, is when you start fitting nice fresh components back onto the shell.
Well done, its going too look very good.

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Neil »

Steering rack fluid ?
What are the recomendations: I see mention of semi-fluid grease used on landrovers and Pog mentions a Dave Lane homemade goop recipe?
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Uncle Henry »

Pays yer money and makes yer choice. Landy swivel grease in mine...

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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by The Nun »

The term swivel grease gives the wrong impression really, although that's what they call it, its grease but not as we know it Jim, it is in fact a very runny thick oil, more oil than grease, and it flows throughout the rack in use, nothing will be starved of lubricant like it would be if you used normal grease grease.
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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Uncle Henry »



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Re: Harry Hillman

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane »

Either my mix of 50% lithium grease and EP80 mixed or Volvo rack grease which is light green , both work equally as well , the new gaiters we get now are generally inferior and split - hence why i now use thicker stuff
Formally known as " Noddy "
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